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View Full Version : Calling all TiVo gurus! (cali, greek, et all)



gjb13
12-01-2003, 01:34 PM
I’ve got a DSR6000 – with 2 40gig drives (that were just laying around). I’m experiencing the hang during ‘updating database’. After 3 hours, I finally pulled the plug. Been reading the posts, and was hoping my modem was fried. Removed the modemtest from tvbin (both hda4 and hda7) and still stuck at ‘almost there’.

I think I saw cali post “If you got bash, and a hardware problem, I can almost guarantee I can fix it.”

I reallllly hoping somebody can help me.

Attached are kernel and tvlog log files – if anybody needs anymore info - please ask!

TIA

gjb13
12-01-2003, 01:35 PM
here's tvlog

gjb13
12-01-2003, 03:55 PM
here's tvlog

(sorry about duplicate post!)

GREEK
12-01-2003, 06:39 PM
Where did this come from? I assume this is not a tivo you had. Pop the cover and look behind the phone plug for any visible burning or missing fried chips. And then look behind the tuners at U37 and U38(in tiny white letters) they are the only 2 small black chips behind the tuners, look for any missing legs or burnt up chip............

gjb13
12-01-2003, 06:53 PM
This is a unit I’ve had up and running for over a year. Decided to take 5 minutes and add the second 40 gig drive. After I blessed it, the unit didn’t register the extra space, so I decide to start from scratch.

I check for physical damage – nothing apparent by the phone hook jack or either of the 2 tuner chips (u37 – 38).

Everything worked fine when I started (I didn’t need the extra 40 gig this bad!)

Does the log file tell you anything?

lmurray
12-01-2003, 07:44 PM
I'm certainly not a hardware expert. I do see this in your kernel.log:

etc/rc.d/rc.sysinit: [: missing `]'

Did you edit your rc.sysinit file? It seems like it's missing a ] somewhere. Can you get a backup rc.sysinit? If not, try a fresh install of someones tivo software (or xtreme)

just a thought

-lloyd-

gjb13
12-01-2003, 08:17 PM
I check my rc.sysinit file and found a bracket mis-match at the end of the file (good catch lmurray). I've never edited the file - must be noise from upload / cd burn(?).

Can someone tell me what it's supposed to be?


if [ -e /etc/SubTest]; then
if [ -x /tvbin/fixsub.tcl]; then
echo "Surgeon's Sub Test" > /etc/SubTest
/tvbin/fixsub.tcl
fi
fi

[ ! -f /etc/rc.d/rc.sysinit.author ] || /etc/rc.d/rc.sysinit.author

echo "rc.sysinit is complete"

Thanks!!

gjb13
12-01-2003, 08:36 PM
actualy, that last line does have a matching right bracket - so, I didn't find a bracket mis-match

gjb13
12-01-2003, 11:45 PM
I looked around and found (what I think is) a missing surface mount resistor. The (really bad) picture is supposed to be showing you the line of resistors on the mother board where that plastic ribbon power cable connects. The third from the right is missing!!

When I measure resistance between the two pads I see about 3.2k

Is it supposed to look like this? How do I find out what’s supposed to be there?

(If I dropped the hard drive carriage, it would land right about there.)

Any ideas?

GREEK
12-02-2003, 12:01 AM
there is supposed to be a ceramic resistor there, it looks like you have half of one. Thats the 5 volt line I beleive, have to check specs for sure. Regardless, if its not a normal looking resistor like the other ones, thats the start of trouble. Usually if your missing 5 or 12 volt you wont have initialization. Resistance isnt the issue here, its the line voltage. Those peices "clean" the voltage to said part, and actually conduct it. Certain parts of the board will not pass voltage on down the line without it, others will. There definitely should be a full piece there though, I dont think that spot will progress without it.....

EDIT: I took another look at the pic and thats the 30 volt line for sure, I was thinking upside down, I beleive thats C256. The previous owner may have removed it because of a short, to free up the line. That would make your tuners susseptable to break down. Pop the covers off of both tuners, and see if the large chip with the aluminum slit resting on it has any visible damage to it, look on BOTH tuners..........

cali
12-02-2003, 12:42 PM
Originally posted by GREEK
EDIT: I took another look at the pic and thats the 30 volt line for sure, I was thinking upside down, I beleive thats C256. The previous owner may have removed it because of a short, to free up the line. That would make your tuners susseptable to break down. Pop the covers off of both tuners, and see if the large chip with the aluminum slit resting on it has any visible damage to it, look on BOTH tuners..........

nah, the tuner(s) is kaput....100%. Best bet is to measure thet 30V to gnd resistance. Remove tuners one @ a time until it comes back up.

Where did U get this unit from??

gjb13
12-02-2003, 03:14 PM
I got the unit orignially from ebay. Have had it for over a year. Everything was working before I started the '5 minute' upgrade.

I'm away from the unit right now... How do I measure 30v to gnd resistance (what pin - where the resistor seems to be missing?)?

I assume if one or more tuners are bad, they can be replaced? (Are tuners socketed?) Where can I order them? Big $$$? And still need to fix that resistor, right?

I appreciate all the help!!

gjb13
12-02-2003, 06:19 PM
Popped the covers off of both tuners - and there's no obvious damage.

C256 is a 0.1uf capacitor?

gjb13
12-02-2003, 07:01 PM
a better pic of missing componet @ power cable

gjb13
12-02-2003, 07:02 PM
pic of tuner (second one looks about the same)

cali
12-03-2003, 02:44 PM
Originally posted by gjb13
I got the unit orignially from ebay. Have had it for over a year. Everything was working before I started the '5 minute' upgrade.

I'm away from the unit right now... How do I measure 30v to gnd resistance (what pin - where the resistor seems to be missing?)?

I assume if one or more tuners are bad, they can be replaced? (Are tuners socketed?) Where can I order them? Big $$$? And still need to fix that resistor, right?

I appreciate all the help!!

yea...c256 is 30V to GND (if I recall correctly)..or 3.3V to gnd?
Anyway measures across the two pads. Again, if I recall correctly below 100ohms...something is wrong. ( I havent fixed any tuner problems in a while).

Tuners are not socketed. You will need some solder wick to remove them. In 90%+ of the cases where one goes the other goes.

gjb13
12-03-2003, 08:09 PM
tried replacing the capacitor - but no difference!

gjb13
12-03-2003, 08:11 PM
Originally posted by gjb13
When I measure resistance between the two pads I see about 3.2k

does that mean tuners aren't bad?

GREEK
12-03-2003, 08:29 PM
Where did this originally come from, before you had it for a year? THat resistor looks removed, I have yet to see one just "fall" off without being popped with burning left behind. This may have had low 30volt line previous, and they took it off to free up the line. Cali says its tuners, I cant tell you shi* from the logs, I dont go by those. With a voltmeter you can test and find out for sure. I really doubt its the 30 volt line here, it may be low/bad, but thats not what keeps a tivo sticking at almost there. Look at the chip you took a picture of, and the WHOLE tuner assembly, the other 2 chips and the resistors. SOmetimes, just a little very faint bubbly appears on that big chip, not even noticable unless you remove and look from an angle. The last place 30 shows up before the tuners is C61 and C64 respectively. On #2 its by the edge of the card reader, to the right of the tuner module half way down. On #1 its in the crevice of the tuners, need small headed voltmeter probe to get in there. They are even with eachother across from the tuners. If you have 30 there (often 29volts) thats not it. I would say a tuner is bad also, if your modem is intact, and the lnbp chips are good, thats the only other probably thing. Get a desolder iron (ratshack) works great compared to wick and iron. Remove one at a time and should free up the boot if its bad. BTW, you said you were trying the upgrade. You sure your image is good? I would reimage or try another working drive before I did anything else. Also, check the schematics of the T60 on this forum, and find the exact resistance of C256. I would use a ceramic resistor, the type your using may or may not be a problem.

cali
12-04-2003, 10:12 AM
hey greek, you realise c256 is a cap right? ;)



sh: /tvbin/modemtest: No such file or directory


This tells me the modem test is skipped, so even with a bad modem it should boot up.
Looking further down you see the unit hanging @ cammanager.
This is when the 5505s initiate connections via i2c with the tuners. You can pick this up by following the rc.sysinit code.

What does your 3V line measure? Resistance wise that it. I will make sure I look at my schemtatics tonight and get you some more solid advice, since its been a while.

gjb13
12-04-2003, 03:49 PM
Originally posted by cali
What does your 3V line measure? Resistance wise that it. I will make sure I look at my schemtatics tonight and get you some more solid advice, since its been a while.

cali - I measured resistance across C298 (which I think is the 3V line to ground). It finally stabelized at about 835 ohms (rampped up fairly slowly).

Also measred resistance between 3V line and ground - pins 1 and 2 of the power supply connector. Zero ohms - no commectivity.

Tried measuring output of power supply.
Pin2 (3 volt) - 3.3 steady
Pin 5 (12 volt) - 4~8 switching all around
pin 6 (5 volt) - 3~4 all around
pin 8 (30 volt) - 0~10
pin 9 (24 volt) - 3-15

Also measured 5 and 12 @ disk drive connector - looked about the same.

Is the power supply supposed to 'click' (about twice every three seconds)?

cali
12-05-2003, 10:50 AM
Originally posted by gjb13
cali - I measured resistance across C298 (which I think is the 3V line to ground). It finally stabelized at about 835 ohms (rampped up fairly slowly).

Also measred resistance between 3V line and ground - pins 1 and 2 of the power supply connector. Zero ohms - no commectivity.

Tried measuring output of power supply.
Pin2 (3 volt) - 3.3 steady
Pin 5 (12 volt) - 4~8 switching all around
pin 6 (5 volt) - 3~4 all around
pin 8 (30 volt) - 0~10
pin 9 (24 volt) - 3-15

Also measured 5 and 12 @ disk drive connector - looked about the same.

Is the power supply supposed to 'click' (about twice every three seconds)?

Ah the click...the PS is a switching PS. Basically if there is a problem on the motherboard, pulling down a line, it will do that clicking. Bad PS also click.

Did u measure 3.3V resistance with the power off? Make sure you do. Also, disconnect the ribbon, and measure the resistance on the motherboard alone.

gjb13
12-05-2003, 01:20 PM
PS clicking (very faint) was with it disconnected from the motherboard.

Measured resistance with power off (but PS still connected).

Will remeasure with PS disconnected.

Any suspicions yet? (I'm getting discouraged)

GREEK
12-05-2003, 07:05 PM
code:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A bad U13 can hang at almost there, even with modemtest removed.

If your getting fluctuation on the leads of the ribbon on the board, there is something holding down the supply, and if its occasionally ticking, that is the switching chip on the supply. Thats chip and the 4.7 cap next to it go bad alot. If its being held down, thats normal. If not, may be bad, but shouldnt keep this at almost there, without a reboot afterwards. Just yank the tuners, one by one as Cali suggested, thats your next step here. You can spend hours trying to figure voltages, but pull the tuners first, its fast and may give you the answer. If after that, your still stuck, then start the hunt. If its other than tuners, you'll need smt equip to repair from there. Does your modem circuit have any signs of damge. Look carefully at that area behind the phone plug, if thats hit you may have a bad modem controller, modemtest will not free that up. you can remove that chip and tivo will still function otherwise.......

gjb13
12-08-2003, 12:04 PM
Originally posted by GREEK
...Just yank the tuners, one by one as Cali suggested, thats your next step here. You can spend hours trying to figure voltages, but pull the tuners first, its fast and may give you the answer. If after that, your still stuck, then start the hunt.

Pull the first tuner and then try to boot it?

cali
12-13-2003, 06:53 PM
yup