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Thread: PROM socketing

  1. #361
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2
    I have a TCD540040 S2 Box that I'd like to get prom socketed... Pls pm me if anyone wants to do it for a fee, they still need socketin' / hackin before being able to use with the wonderful hacks out there right???
    Thanks!

  2. #362
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1
    I have worked with a friend to program a hacked image onto a prom using an eithernet card and use the piggy back method to put it onto the Tivo board. It worked first try, without cutting traces. This was because there was a resistor in line with the Chip Select for the prom which was removed. This was on the Series 3 Tivo. Now I would like to do the same for my Series 2 540xx Tivo and have not been able to find a copy of the latest (I believe it was the 2.7 image) for a Series 2. If anyone has this could you reply or PM me with it. Thanks.

    Rich

  3. #363
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    1
    I have a Humax T800 that I need socketed. Can tell me how I can do this or who is offering socketing services?

    -dave

  4. #364
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    347
    Quote Originally Posted by hitemup View Post
    I have a Humax T800 that I need socketed. Can tell me how I can do this or who is offering socketing services?

    -dave
    Hey Dave! Welcome to DDB! There are currently two people offering socketing services on the forum, and you can find both of us in the "For Sale/Trade" section on this forum.
    .-=Omikron=-.

    TiVo Series4 Premiere Development HERE

    Do you have a PROM related question? Check HERE and HERE before sending me a PM. Any questions that have already been answered will be deleted if sent via PM.

  5. #365
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    10
    My PROM socketing experiences.

    Just wanted to share my experience successfully replacing my prom with a socketed prom, as it may help others. This approach worked for me, by no means am I claiming this is the "best" or most effective way.

    Prep:
    Purchased from Fry's:
    - thin tipped soldering iron (30W for $2.99 with thin tip).
    - a Chip Quik chip removal kit. ($12.99)
    - a 3-6x lighted magnifying glass ($6.99) (it has a portion of the glass that is 6x)
    - solder wick
    - lead free solder - get the thinnest wire they have as you don't want too much to get on the tiny pins.
    - 85% pure isopropyl alcohol
    - cotton swabs (I should have looked for lint/shred resistant ones)

    I covered the whole power supply section with cardboard, on top and on the side facing the main board. I unhooked the IDE hard drive cable from the board, as it was too close to the chip for comfort.

    Then, I Used Chip Quik to remove the old prom. It took a little more heating to loosen it than I expected, using the Chip Quik material. I added more flux to help clear off the remaining solder from the pads. I got about 95% of the solder off. Then used cotton and alcohol to remove flux residue.

    I punched out the base of the socket, as many have said here. It would be difficult to get at some of the pins otherwise. Then I tinned the bottom of the pins of the socket with a SMALL amount of solder, just painting a touch of solder on each pin, using the magnifying glass. If I tried to add the solder directly on the board, I would not be able to control the amount of solder as well. I found out during my first attempt how using too much solder is easily a problem.

    I applied flux over the pins after laying the socket on the board. Then, using the glass to view, I touched the iron to each pin, and saw the solder melt and coat the pad to the pin. There were a couple of pins that needed a touch more solder, I just dabbed the iron into solder and took a tiny droplet at a time and added it. Following this, I cleaned the flux reside with alcohol and swabs.

    I didn't like the idea of pulling on the edges of the chip with hard metal prongs to pull it out of the socket, if required, so I came up with a little trick to be able to remove the prom easily if needed for testing, etc. I laid an 8 inch piece of thin string in the socket before installing the chip, so that the ends of the string would extend from 2 diagonal corners of the socket. Now by gently pulling up on the string while pressing down on the socket to avoid pulling on the socket, I can pull up the chip a lot more easily and gently, as the string pulls against the underside of the chip, not just the corners (kind of like the red tape that you find in some AA battery compartments, where you pull on the tape to pop out the batteries).
    Last edited by zigner2; 06-16-2009 at 02:43 PM.

  6. #366
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1

    prom socketing

    can you remove prom and replace a socket on drt800 ,and upgrade the prom


    Quote Originally Posted by MudShark View Post
    Ok, from the rumor mill Kraven has stopped doing them? If so, I'm game to pick up where he left off. Have SMD reworkstaion and not affraid to use it.

    If Kraven is still doing them, I have *NO* intentions of stepping on his feet!!

    I currently only have the SA-2's firmware. So for the Direct Tivo people, and the HD Tivo people I need at least links to the 'enhanced' firmwares.

  7. #367
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    3
    Any interested parties can try removing the prom with a heat gun and installing the socket yourself if you like. This is our little guide for those with an adventurous spirit.

    Guide part 1 - Removing the EEPROM with a standard heat gun
    Guide part 2 - Installing PLCC socket onto the EEPROM footprint

    It's basically a general-purpose guide to removing SMT chips, we just happened to have used a Tivo to do it.

  8. #368
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    64
    My HR10-250 was working fine until I decided to socket it. In the process of removing the prom, I managed to lift the pad for pin 4. I soldered a wire in to make the connection and soldered the rest of the socket in. I checked for shorts and found none. The unit fails to boot with the original prom put back in the socket. I'm pretty sure all the connections are good but I'm thinking maybe I fried the prom. I previously was successful in socketing two TCD540080 units so I thought this one would be easy. I don't have a 2.14 prom image since I was planning on dumping it once I removed the chip. When trying to dump the prom using the same setup I used to flash the TCD540080 proms, it locks up the computer and fails to read the prom. Hopefully I can get another HR10-250 and dump the prom first.
    Last edited by woracan; 11-14-2009 at 10:20 AM.

  9. #369
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    64
    I used homieflash on my socketed S2SA to dump the HR10-250 prom (doing a hot-swap of course).

    getprom -verify_file HR10-250Prom.bin reports:

    !! Computed SHA1 doesn't match stored SHA1 !!

    Computed SHA1: 0x8067780030266C41494CA6F11FA4CFBD0ADE1CB8
    Stored SHA1: 0x9916FD518DA3F0608DA3F0608DA3F060FF6D0FC6
    File length: 131072
    Stored length: 200279139
    Build type: TiVoTiVoTiVocm/rel
    Marked version: 2el
    I'm reasonably certain that is a corrupt prom and I'll take that as good news because it means that the socket is probably good.

    I repeated the hot-swap homieflash dump and the two prom dumps were identical.

    Browsing through the file, it appears that the first four bytes are correct followed by those same four bytes duplicated two more times followed by four different (presumably correct) bytes. The pattern repeats with four bytes repeated three times followed by four different bytes. This pattern seems to repeat throughout the entire file which is how it ends up with "TiVoTiVoTiVo" in the Build type. The dump file appears to be padded with 0xff like a non-corrupt prom starting at 0x013410 although that may not be the exact location because the start of the padding may have been corrupted to read as 0x00.

  10. #370
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    2

    need PROM images for S3, S2 and Humax

    Hi, I'm not sure where to ask or look (I've been looking all through the forums), but I'm in search of PROM images for my Series 3 TCD648250, Series 2 (TCD540080) and Humax T800. Could you guys point me in the right direction or even post the images? I'm about to socket all 3 and would like to be sure I have a backup plan in case the PROMS get whacked in the removal process.

    (email is ru_bme at yahoo dot com)

    Thanks for your help!

  11. #371
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    12
    hello all i love this site lots of info and im soaking every bit of it up any way im getting ready to do a prom mod on my 2 TCD540040 units im fairly good with electronics but this will be my first socketing and prom mod i order regularly from mouser in bulk so i ordered 20 (SST39VF010-70-41-NHE) chips and 20 (32 pos. tin plated sockets)
    Why so many? never hurts to have extras on hand to play with

    my setup:
    intel 100b ehternet card
    dos 6.22 boot usb
    fboot.exe
    virgin and modded 2.25 tivo s2 prom images
    heat gun purchased from walmart (never used this one before)
    cardboard
    aluminum foil
    toothpicks (for lifting SST37 chip from board)
    flux (from what i have read optional if you lightly tin the socket pins first and do not remove the leftover solder from the pads)
    well lit work area
    iron with small tip
    thin solder
    --------------

    am i missing anything?

    and from what i gather is i should keep my old chips and back their image up just in case?

    i have spent the past few days hours at a time reading the forum. nice as it is its hard even with search function to find everything due to people hijacking threads and begging in the wrong spots . snyway my question is what are the offsets i need to look for in hex workshop to make sure they are changed i seen the post about the offsets in the original prom for the 2.5 s2 but when i looked in the images i grabbed from here i noticed the check sum MD5 is correct but the offset is of by 1 digit! am i doing something wrong in hex workshop or is this normal?

    thanks for any replys and look forward to hearing anyones opinions
    also if it is ok i will try and post some pics as i go on this.

    and if everything goes well i may have some spare pre programmed series 2 TCD540040 SST39 chips and sockets to sell cheap if any one is interested will let everyone know once i get this done

    and one last thing (sorry to make this so long) how exactly do i find out what revison prom im on is it in the settings menue of the tivo (im way new at tivo used to do FTA but moved on to tivo lol)

  12. #372
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    213
    You need to get some ChipQuik (the bismuth solder and flux combo pack) and practice on surface mount devices on a piece of dead equipment.

    Wal-Mart's got a Wall-Lenk soldering iron with a small tip that'll come in handy.

    If you're going to use a heat gun you definitely need to practice a lot first on something expendable.

    Heat guns are a great way to screw up big time if you aren't careful, or maybe even if you are.
    Too busy TiVo wrangling to watch television anymore.

  13. #373
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by unitron View Post
    You need to get some ChipQuik (the bismuth solder and flux combo pack) and practice on surface mount devices on a piece of dead equipment.

    Wal-Mart's got a Wall-Lenk soldering iron with a small tip that'll come in handy.

    If you're going to use a heat gun you definitely need to practice a lot first on something expendable.

    Heat guns are a great way to screw up big time if you aren't careful, or maybe even if you are.
    yeah i have used chipquik before and had less luck i have used heatguns before doing bga removals but they are a bit bigger well the ones i did are as for testing i have a few ide cards with sst39 chips in them they are old raid cards i am going to practice on it first by removing the chip and putting a socket on if i do them correctly i will move to 1 of the tivo's see how that goes. as for the tivo i will make sure every thing but the chip is covered with foil first as to keep it from getting to hot i also removed all cables and the battery for safety

  14. #374
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    12
    ok got the first tivos prom pulled with no prob no lifted pads or burnt pcb letting things cool a bit and will read the prom to make sure i dident fry the prom
    what i did was create a foil shield about 12 layers thick cut a hole in the foil to a little larger than the chip covered every other part with foil and put the heat gun on low (750deg) and held it over the chip for about 20 seconds tapped the chip no movement then held another 15 seconds taped no move then another 10 seconds and it was sliding like a bar of soap on a wet floor so i took a pair of tweezers and lightly grabbed it and took it out (is it me or is this kinda like playing operation in hell with the heat and all)

    any way so far so good i wont mess with the other unit untill im 100% i got it right

    and for all noobs out there unless you have experiance using heat gun and have a VERY steady hand DO NOT TRY THIS i have over 15 years of experiance messing with solder and pcb's and to me this was a nerve wracking experiance and im only 1/2 done but as i read b4 removing the chip is the hardest part without damaging any thing

  15. #375
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    12
    well as for the prom chip i think the heat was a little much for it it shows up in fboot as UNKNOWN lol we will see how the chips i flashed work once the socket is in

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