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Thread: Coasters -R and -RW

  1. #1
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    Coasters -R and -RW

    Has anyone had any real luck with using DVD-RW to test this stuff. I can use the media once and then it appears one cannot overwrite it. Therefore I have some -RW coasters and ALOT of -R coasters. I would prefer not to continue wasting disks. They get damn expensive at $2 each.

    I understand there are some built-in formatting tools in programs such as Nero and the like. I can't get any of it to work. Does anyone hahve any suggestions on formating my once-written DVD-RW coasters so that they can be written to all over again?

  2. #2
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    Nero has an option for erasing the discs. I believe it's in the Recorder pull-down menu. You can either do a quick erase or a full erase. I find that a quick erase works fine for my DVD-RW discs. I've used some of my discs dozens of times and they still work great. Get yourself some cheap Princo DVD-RW discs for about $1.10 each. They work well in both my Sony DVD player and my son's Playstation 2.
    Please don't PM me or any other members looking for personal assistance. You'll do better by posting (after you've exhausted the search feature, of course) and taking advantage of the collective expertise of the membership instead of a single individual that may or may not be able to help you. Thank you and enjoy your stay at DDB!

  3. #3
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    CV is right, you normally have to use the erase option. I found in some cases I have to do a full erase.

    Not sure why there isn't a pop up message that says something like there is data on the DVD do you want to erase first?

  4. #4
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    Originally posted by newbie
    CV is right, you normally have to use the erase option. I found in some cases I have to do a full erase.

    Not sure why there isn't a pop up message that says something like there is data on the DVD do you want to erase first?
    Probably because the erase feature isn't perfected yet. Surely there is a third party formating utility out there somewhere? I am still getting "illegal medium" using either of the two methods described in the above response.

    PS. Sony DRU-500a I did a firmware revision sometime back to update it to 500a. Does anyone know where I can keep track of future firmware revisions for this one?

  5. #5
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    Snoopy not sure if it's your problem but I read that Sony does better with +R disks than with -R. Not sure if it's the same with the RW variety. I sometimes have problems erasing disks.

  6. #6
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    I've to the external version of this same drive

    Actually shows up in burning software as the 500a, never had a problem erasing the -RW or the +RW. I did have a time where I THOUGHT it was the media because i had the same 3 gig of data I was trying to burn over and over and it failed. Turned out to be a heavily fragged hard drive. Defraged and it burnt beautifully!

    (Error was that it would burn for a few minutes (1-10) then kick the disk out with an obscure error about the media).

    That may help I hope.

    You can get the latest and greates firmware from here:
    http://sony.storagesupport.com/legal...e/500a20e1.zip

    Official site here:
    http://sony.storagesupport.com/dvdrw/dru500a.htm

    A list of firmware's from here: (even the 2.0f from Japan)
    http://www.cdrinfo.com/Sections/Firm...tWhat=DRU-500A

    There is even a cool archive site of all the firmware:
    http://www.sonydru500a.com/

    Andy
    Last edited by larray; 06-02-2003 at 03:05 PM.

  7. #7
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    Re: I've to the external version of this same drive

    Originally posted by larray
    I did have a time where I THOUGHT it was the media because i had the same 3 gig of data I was trying to burn over and over and it failed. Turned out to be a heavily fragged hard drive. Defraged and it burnt beautifully!
    A list of firmware's from here: (even the 2.0f from Japan)
    http://www.cdrinfo.com/Sections/Firm...tWhat=DRU-500A
    Andy
    Excellent info. I'm trying it all now. THANK YOU

  8. #8
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    larray's suggestion

    I did try doing the firmware update, cleaning up disk space, and defragmenting. It seems to have helped. I got one disk formated this way. The other one, even using full-formating option, still returs the obsure "illegal media" error. I am surprised there are not some good third party formating utilities by now. Thanks for the help.

  9. #9
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    No problem, glad to help!

    I know a lot of folks deride the Stomp RecordNow MAX software, but you might try it for blanking your disks. It has worked very well for me. I actually like it a bit better for making DVD Movies as well from VIDEO_TS and AUDIO_TS folders, not as many options as Nero, but seems to stamp out a consistent movie disk.


    I almost sent 3 +RW disks back to Khypermedia thinking I got a bad batch, but it failed on a -R as well which then led me back to cleaning up the computer.

    If I can be of any more help, let me know.

    larray

  10. #10
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    A lot of people on other fourms think RecordMax is much better than Nero for DVD applications.

    Nero has improved (I still use it).

  11. #11
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    A lot of people on other fourms think RecordMax is much better than Nero for DVD applications.
    That's probably because RecordNow Max was designed specifically for creating DVDs whereas DVD functionality was an add-on for Nero. I've used both and generally use Nero for burning all my DVDs and never had any problems with it. I've also never had any problems erasing my DVD-RW discs with Nero.

    Snoopy - Just as a point of interest, there is no formatting involved with DVD recordable or rewritable discs. Erasing the rewriteable DVD-RW or +RW discs just involves keeping the laser at a constant setting so that the dye layer is returned to its default condition. During the recording process, the level of the laser's intensity is varied to cause the dye layer to change it's opacity and thus affect the reflectivity of the disc and simulate either a "0" or a "1" in much the same way that a stamped DVD works. In other words, the laser heats up the dye layer, causing it to deform in such a way that it either lets light pass through the dye layer to the reflective backing or blocks it enough to change the amount of light that is reflected. This effectively works the same way that the lands and pits allow light to reflect or defract in a commercially produced DVD.
    Please don't PM me or any other members looking for personal assistance. You'll do better by posting (after you've exhausted the search feature, of course) and taking advantage of the collective expertise of the membership instead of a single individual that may or may not be able to help you. Thank you and enjoy your stay at DDB!

  12. #12
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    First off you gave to understand there is no CD-R stanadard (ok we call then by the color of the books, but they really are not "standard"). Menaing drive manfactuors can do just about anything they damn well please (and do). One media that works great for me may not work great for you. It all depends on the firmware of your cd recorder. As for what program is better or worse (aside from features) they are all about the same.

    They use a standard (remember what I said about having no standard) called MMC. Meaning your drive can give information about it via some standard calls. The media in the drive is read a a funtion of the firmware of the drive. The media infomation can be obtained from the drive via ATIP calls. The software only tells you what the drive told it.

    To add to what CV said, a CD-R is actuly made up of various layers. First comes a polycarbonate plastic substrate containing a shallow spiral groove extending from the inside to the outside diameter of the disc. On top of this substrate is an organic dye recording layer (cyanine, phthalocyanine or azo) followed by a thin metal reflective layer (gold, silver alloy or silver) and finally an outer protective lacquer coating. On top of that is a layer of protective coating, or physical writable area (where you use your felt tip pen).

    Of them you want to use the AZO (this is my opinion). Unfortunatly not all writers can use this dye. Early CD-R discs employed cyanine-based dye exclusively and recording conditions defined in Orange Book Part II standards were tuned around cyanine characteristics. As time changes so did the standard (as the often do), around discs using phthalocyanine and azo dyes emerged. Since then, recorders select write strategies appropriate for the type of dye and carefully control the laser beam as required to achieve the best results with all types of media Hence the reason many writers have problems with differing meda.

    To allow information to not only be re-written many times over, CD-RW disc construction is more complex than that of CD-R (CD-RW is Orange Book III, in case you care). A CD-RW disc uses a six-layer design beginning with a polycarbonate plastic substrate containing a shallow spiral groove extending from the inside to the outside edge of the disc. Next comes a dielectric layer (zinc sulfide and silicon dioxide), followed by a phase change alloy recording layer (indium, silver, tellurium, and antimony), another dielectric layer, a thin metal reflective layer (aluminum) and finally a protective lacquer overcoat.

    Remember that CD-R/RW discs differ greatly from vendor to vendor. So when it comes to choosing among them keep in mind the importance of selecting products based on your particular requirements rather than focusing on any one characteristic. In other words try a few and decide for yourself.
    Last edited by Torg; 06-03-2003 at 04:46 PM.

  13. #13
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    Finallly I get to answer a question!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Try this in Nero. When using the full erase option lower the recording(erasing) speed. It worked for me.

    Mikey

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