HR10-250 High Temp Error, Possable temp fix via script?

[1dave1]

I have search for info on editing out or changing the temperature check on startup so the unit does not halt and display the "high internal temmperature message at startup"


Either the way I searched for it was not exactly right or no one has looked into trying that. My hdTiVo is NOT running hot and seems fine while booting until that dreaded message.

The hard drive was just upgraded a few months ago, a faster rear fan and a hard drive cooler was installed a year ago when I first purchased the unit. It also has been raised via 1x wood strips for increased ventalation and the shelf has a small fan to insure air movement.

If I remember right that temp check should be simple to omit/skip or creat a "dummy" value to make the tivo happy.

Thanks in advance!

[PlainBill]

I had a similar problem with an HDVR2 running 3.1.1b. There were several modules loaded in order in rc.sysinit. IIRC, by commenting out the line which loaded therm I was able to solve the problem. This left the fan running a maximum speed. The only negative consequence was the status screen did not display the temperature.

PlainBill

[1dave1]

Thanks! PB, I receved a responce from weaknees and there solution was that replacing the power supply will certainly solve that issue.

I will dig in this evening and edit the rc.sysinit.

I will post my results later.

[1dave1]

I had to use an instantcake to restore a new drive as the original drive died. I am UNABLE to edit the startup file as you spoke about because the unit does NOT manage to get all the way thru to rebooting before the error message pops up and the unit shuts down.

I did install the drive in a pc and use mfstools2 to view the start up files, they are either empty or just have commands for rebooting to complete the instantcake restoration.

I am somewhat at a loss as its been a very long time since I have dug this deep into a tivo or even had to.

Any suggestions?

PS I am unable to obtain a virgin 6.3 image other than the instantcake restore iso.

Thanks! Dave

[Narf54321]

I did install the drive in a pc and use mfstools2 to view the start up files, they are either empty or just have commands for rebooting to complete the instantcake restoration.

It sounds almost like you are trying to edit the bootfiles on the bootCD instead of the Tivo drive.

[1dave1]

Well.............. Heres where I am at now.

I slapped the 250gb drive in an SD DTivo and let it do its thing. I then got net access, ftp'd the entire RC directory to my pc. Then using EndPad I started one by one looking for the FAN CONTROL and the OverTemp error lines.

I only found the call for the /tvbin/Fancontrol in the StageD start up.

I did not find any reference to fan or temp anywhere else nor did I find any reference to calling the High Temp OSD Error message.

My plan is to find it, adjust it or rem it out, xfer it back to the tivo hd and then test it back in the HDTivo.

Hey... its a long shot but what the heck! lol

[1dave1]

Success! I renamed fancontrol to fancontrol.old in /tvbin and the HDTivo is running fine!

I now have an error #51 which I am taking care of and hopefully all will be well.

Thanks! Dave

[1dave1]

Solved those issues BUT now after having it activated by dtv I get a grey screen, audio "shsh" and an insert access card message about every 3 to 5 minutes.

This happens via all outputs (S-Video, RF, Comp. & HDMI) it acts as if part of the mb looses power resulting in the loss of access card avalibilityso hence no video.

I tried a test by recording several shows but for example a 1hour show ends up only recording about 40 minutes or so playable (the full 60 min was not there). During playback "skips" as when there was no video.

I feel its a bad power supply but it is not worth putting alot of $$ into it on the chance it wont solve anything.

Has anyone else experenced this after the fancontrol renaming to get the unit to start up w/o the temp error?

Looks like I may end up having to write it off as junk it as I searched and found no other issues like these. Been searching for a cheap power supply, havent found many.

[1dave1]

Entire Issue SOLVED!

I guess these power supplies are pretty whimpy and sure wont take alot.


A new power supply solved the INTERNAL TEMP HIGH error message on boot up.

Thank You!!! for the suggestions & assistance.

[jmayes]

Yes, I double confirm that it's the power supply. Thank you for your post you put me on the right track (finally!)

If someone wants to fix theire own power supply here ya go,

There were two caps (capacitors) that were hidden under the heatsincs, just two small things- mine were even bulging. C15 and C42, both 470uf @ 6.3v, when replacing them use 16v or 25v ones, they will last way longer.

It explained everything, High frequency was bleeding from the switching pulses in the power supply onto a 3v and 5v sub power lines (not the main ones for the HD or CPU) but fed key parts on the I2c buss, smart card and Digital audio.

Hope that helps someone!!!
JM

[PlainBill]

One point, using caps with a higher voltage rating will NOT increase their life expectancy. They fail due to contamination in the electrolyte, not over voltage. Using a higher voltage cap won't hurt, provided it will fit, but don't expect it to last forever. Using a good brand of Japanese made cap is your best bet.

PlainBill

[SevronD]

I got the same error tonight (and the last couple of days). I'll take a look at my power supply tomorrow.

For searching ease, the entire message is (no quotes, on a black background with orange trim):

“The internal temperature was too high. The DVR has been shut down to avoid damage to the hardware.
Please check the following:
1. The air vents are not blocked and the DVR is in a well-ventilated area.
2. The DVR Is not placed in an overly hot location (e.g., on top of an A/V receiver).

If there is no apparent reason for this overheating, or the problem is frequent, please call Customer Support.

To restart your DVR, unplug it and plug it in again.”

My HR10-250 is a few years old now and in a place with not-so-good airflow, so it makes sense that the hardware has been overheated. Plus the two 500GB drives and Wireless G box all stuffed back there I'm sure reduced its life. I'll see if it's just a couple of bad caps.

[SevronD]

So I took out the power supply and took a look. I replaced the two capacitors noted (C15 and C42), carefully noting the polarity requirements. Both are bulging a bit also, while the other caps are not.

I think this *IS* the problem, because the solder-side of the board is discolored where the smaller heatsink connects to the circuit board. This implies to me that this area got so hot in the past that it reflowed the solder-flux. I have repaired my few pinball machines in the past, and their power supplies have failed in this same way, so this makes sense. Caps typically have trouble with heat and are right near by, so this also makes sense.

Anyway, for long life, it's better to choose capacitors with a higher temperature rating. So, I replaced them with 6.3V 470uF caps with a rating of 105C, which should be an improvement ($1.33 at Frys). The rating of the previous ones are not known, but 105C will boil water and if the unit gets that hot then I need to review my home fire insurance.

The unit booted up and is working fine so far!! It's only been 15 minutes, but better than the immediate reboot I got last night.

Thanks all!!

[jmayes]

Your good to go for sure, once the caps start bulging they are toast and that lets high frequency in your systems 5v supply causing the I2c miss-reads for temp and smart card. Good quality caps are of course a must and if it were a perfect world using a higher voltage cap would make no difference at all, but in the world we live in where the cap company's cut corners which can make a 6.3v cap have a hard time with 5v is why I like to use caps with a 20% or more voltage rating then required, leaving room for an not so honest manufacture.

Glad you found this thread, hopefully it saved you boo-coos time and $$

Jmayes

[SevronD]

Yes, it certainly saved me time, and money too. Thanks! This is a great site! Using higher voltage caps would stress them less, that's true. The 20% usually refers to the capacitance value, which means 470uF +/-20%. I really cannot attest to the quality of the manufacturing, but we'll see how long these last :-)

Anyway, the unit has been up and fine for a couple days, so it's good!!

-Sevron